Much as it may be ideal to simply live in the present, without luggage, whatever may come – walking naked into the sunset as it were – some basic equipment can be useful.
This is a list of specific equipment (with some contextual criteria/technique/experience) to support my portable (if not minimal) lifestyle. Generally, I aim to find solutions which are simple/versatile/compact/lightweight.
Water is heavy and I prefer to find it as I go (to avoid carrying it), but a reservoir can be useful. Plastic bottles are easy to find, available in many shapes/sizes, and lightweight but more bulky than collapsible/flexible containers. The bladders from wine boxes work but they can be more troublesome than specialised water bags (e.g., Platypus or Evernew).
Plastics are associated with chemical hazards (such as endocrine disruptors) but they make lightweight/flexible containers. Of the commonly available plastics, polyethylene seems the safest choice to me. Although PET is used extensively for beverage bottles (probably for its high transparency), its more complex chemistry seems more likely to involve toxicity.
Metal bottles can be used to boil water (and though a pot may not be needed, it seems prudent to keep food out of the reservoir). I might use a titanium bottle but I have yet to find one which suits me. Bottles made of (food-grade) stainless steel are relatively common and I use them occasionally.
I prefer to sterilise water with UV light. Such water still contains dissolved minerals and infertile microbes (which may help one’s immune system adapt to the local environment). SteriPEN makes the best compact UV sterilisers I’ve seen. One alternative, the mÜV, may work well enough but I’ve seen no independent test results for it.
Some years ago, a friend showed me his camping hammock (both water- and bug-proof like a tent). I no longer carry a tent. Much more than one ever wanted to know about hammock camping can be found at hammockforums.net.
I had not known hammocks to be comfortable for extended use, until I learned to lie in them diagonally (which is much flatter). In contrast to a tent, a hammock is much more comfortable for me, and also more compact/lightweight/versatile (it’s much easier to find a place to hang a hammock than it is to find a tent site).
I started with one from Hennessy Hammocks but now I might buy a Warbonnet instead. In any case, I prefer my own hammock design.
I lost interest in sleeping bags because the insulation is almost useless when compressed by one’s body. A quilt makes more sense to me (whether on the ground or in a hammock). I have a down quilt made by Speer Hammocks which works very well.
I often use my rain gear as a vapour barrier, beneath the outer insulation.
I’m also experimenting with closed-cell foam sheet, the kind often used for packaging. Made of polyethylene or polypropylene, it’s ultralight and available in a range of thicknesses.
I usually wear a silk or wool base layer when sleeping (even if the extra insulation is not necessary) to protect other bedding from my dirty body and for more comfort next to the skin. A silk sleeping bag liner also works but it’s heavier and not as versatile.
I usually carry a refillable, butane torch which works well (until it’s out of fuel). I like a hot/clean/wind-resistant, jet flame with a trigger that is not too close to the flame, a cover which does not interfere, and maximal fuel capacity in a lightweight package.
Some complain of reliability with jet-flame lighters, preferring to use disposable candle-flame lighters instead. Ronson makes a refillable one for almost the same price (don’t feed the Bic…).
A fire piston can be used as a reliable and compact backup (it’s faster and much less vulnerable to wind than a bow drill, &c.) but a ferrocerium («fire steel») sparker seems more practical especially with a piece of magnesium which burns very hot even in wet conditions. I like the compact magnesium/ferrocerium fire starters of Strike Master.
Using found wood or other dry biomass is a good way to avoid carrying fuel but open fires are usually messy and conspicuous; however, it is possible to burn such fuel with much greater efficiency (and very little smoke) by employing gasification. A simple TLUD (top-lit up draft) arrangement makes a big improvement. This TLOD (top-lit opposed draft) design is also interesting and uses a different mode of operation.
Even without a stove, top-lighting can work very well; e.g., a uniform stack of sticks burns evenly and efficiently while the fire remains insulated from the ground.
Pitch is usually available in the woods; otherwise, wax, oil, or whatever liquid fuel is carried for the backup stove can help get a fire going faster.
A liquid fuel stove can be used for backup if biomass cannot be burned. It’s easy to become enchanted with pressurised alcohol stoves but a wick stove is nearly as efficient, simpler, and more versatile (as it can burn various fuels).
To avoid trouble from animals, I eat and sleep in separate locations. I also carry food in airtight containers and avoid getting it on my clothing/luggage (to reduce odours).
I usually travel with precooked, dehydrated food which only needs water and time to soak; hot water is nice but not necessary. In any case, a container is necessary and it may as well be one that can also be used to boil water and cook with. Hot or cold, I eat out of my pot, and my preference is the Evernew ECA264.
When I need a spoon, &c., I find some wood and carve it; chopsticks are even easier.
I clean my teeth with a toothbrush or a stick, depending on circumstance. A stick is more discrete and more thorough but slower. I just whittle a little twig down to a comfortable diameter (≈ 3 mm) and length, then dress the end so it’s flat but frayed (more like a short-bristled scrub brush than a broom). The only advantages I find with a toothbrush are: speed, massaging the gums, and brushing the tongue.
I carry dental floss when travelling. Consumption can be significantly reduced by using a length of about 25 cm (10”), tied in a loop. I also find a loop to be much more comfortable as it need not be tightly wrapped around the fingers. I’ve come to appreciate the efficiency of using a piece of clean, undyed nylon rope already cut to length; the strands are easily unravelled to reveal discrete yarns of continuous filaments very similar to regular unwaxed dental floss (and no need to consume yet another plastic container).
Popular advice favours large, heavy fixed blades for survival applications; however, I find greater versatility in a small folding knife which includes additional tools.
After using a Victorinox Soldier, I developed a great appreciation for the reamer and stronger construction of these «Alox» knives. Of all the available Alox models which include this reamer, I prefer the Pioneer Harvester because it has a small, hooked, pruning blade (which can be reserved for fine work), and a saw. It lacks a can opener but the P-38 can opener is very compact/lightweight and it actually works better. I have little need for the large flat-head screwdriver and even less for the cap lifter; however, the blade can be reground yielding a versatile S-shaped gouge/chisel edge.
I generally don’t carry a fixed blade but I prefer the knives of Mora (Frosts), available in a range of sizes, in laminated steel, high-carbon, or stainless. With high performance, incomparably low cost, and a blade geometry well-suited to working wood, they are simply excellent.
It’s tempting to indulge in more expensive knives but the Mora knives have comparable (if not superior) performance and surprisingly low prices. In any case, the Falkniven F1 and lighter WM1 are worth considering. For high-carbon steel, ESEE Knives has a strong reputation; they also make the AH-1 Arrowhead.
The Pocket Chainsaw is an excellent tool; lightweight and compact, it cuts very quickly (in both directions) with a thin kerf (not to be confused with other chain saws which have a much wider kerf); however, I usually travel without it as I have little need to cut so much wood.
Half of a hacksaw blade is hard to refuse, and ready to cut metal or wood.
I’m not a fan of pliers-based multitools but pliers can be useful, and scissors too. An extra knife blade can be used to spare one’s better blades from potentially damaging work. Unfortunately, it appears that most pliers-based multitools are metallurgically deficient. In any case, these seem interesting:
If I didn’t already carry a knife, I’d choose the SwissTool Spirit.
I carry a few strong needles and some strong nylon thread. Upholstery thread is strong and easy to find.
Fishing equipment can be improvised but hooks and line are so compact/lightweight that I carry some (and often find more on my way).
Generally, I don’t need a lot of light but the following criteria are essential to me (in addition to size and weight):
A variable beam field (spread) is useful but one can mask with the hand instead. A separate red output is welcome but white is okay if it can be dimmed enough to maintain dark adaptation.
I prefer to control output by twisting the head (rather than by pressing a button); i.e. twist from off to minimum output, smoothly increasing to maximum output. The Surefire T1A (single CR123 cell) is larger and heavier than I prefer but it seems to be the smallest light with continuously variable output and twist control.
The LiteFlux LF2XT is the only light I know which is driven by a single AAA cell and meets the output criteria listed above; however, it lacks the kind of twist control I like, and the body could easily be smaller and lighter.
The Photon Freedom Micro is a tiny «key chain» light; it has variable output, but lacks output level memory and run time. I don’t like the Proton Pro because the white output always switches on at full intensity and it’s too big.
I prefer AAA cells because they’re small, lightweight, easy to find, available with lithium chemistry (which is significantly lighter in weight and greater in energy density), and they provide enough run time for my purposes but I also consider AA. In any case, capacity continues to increase. I avoid NiMH because it has a high self-discharge rate, low cycle life; those problems are being improved but it’s inevitably heavy.
Having looked through good Zeiss lenses, my threshold for optical quality has been calibrated to a very high standard; however, satisfactory (and significantly less expensive) lenses can be found from other makers. In any case, I avoid buying optical equipment without first looking through it. I’ve noticed significant variation in optical quality, even from reputable manufacturers, and I prefer to look through several samples of a given product to choose the best one.
Magnification can certainly be useful for survival, and it can also be interesting for a curious mind. I prefer a small monocular (rather than binoculars) for reasons of size and weight. The Brunton zoom monocular (10–30 × 21) seems tempting but the ones I’ve looked through are not much better than the lighter fixed length 7 × 18 model. Alternatively, cheap binoculars can be separated into monoculars.
Such magnifiers can also be used in reverse orientation (backwards) as a low-power microscope for objects at very close range (near the eye relief); similarly, they can also be used to concentrate sunlight to start a fire. Alternatively, a small magnifying lens can be used if size and weight preclude a larger instrument.
A mirror may go unused much of the time but it can be invaluable for signalling and self-service, attending to parts of the body which are otherwise difficult to see (e.g., to remove debris from one’s own eye).
Signalling mirrors with retroreflective aiming are most effective but a simple double-sided mirror with a hole can also be aimed with one hand using similar technique. Adventure Medical Kits makes an inexpensive, lightweight (20 g), and compact (2 × 3 in), polycarbonate (Lexan), retroreflective, signal mirror. I keep a reusable sheet of protective plastic film on mine when not in use.
A compass can be useful in certain situations, such as European cities with roads running at arbitrary angles. A compact button compass is inexpensive and weighs a few grams.
I prefer to use natural materials when practical but synthetics can be useful, especially when strength:weight is important. Fabric is difficult to make in the field but simple twisted cordage is easy.
Natural fibres can be impressively strong: roots, cedar bark, nettles, vines, &c. Preparation is important: loosening the fibres, removing extraneous material, &c.
Nylon (polyamide) is unsurpassed in knot and fatigue strength but it absorbs water (causing its properties to change). It stretches and has high elasticity (shock absorption) which may be good or bad depending on application; it’s also vulnerable to acids and hydrogen peroxide.
Polyester (Dacron) generally has similar or slightly lower strength:weight than nylon; it also has better chemical resistance (but remains vulnerable to caustic alkalis), excellent UV resistance, and less stretch.
Polypropylene is inexpensive and has strength:weight competitive with polyester but its strength:volume is low and it floats. It has excellent chemical resistance but very poor UV resistance and a low melting point.
HMPE/UHMWPE (Dyneema/Spectra) has superior strength:weight but it’s expensive, slippery, and especially weak in knots (use splices). It also has a very low melting point. Strength:volume is about the same as steel cable and it floats. It has excellent chemical and UV resistance.
Aramid (Kevlar) has excellent temperature resistance and good abrasion resistance but it performs poorly in flex cycling and knots.
Further reading:
It starts with skin. The body is capable of significant adaptation. I actively maintain some amount of exposure throughout the seasons to increase vitality and reduce vulnerability. A thick layer of skin can be especially useful on the hands and feet. I have walked great distances in bare feet carrying a load over a wide range of terrain, yet contrary to popular assumption my feet are not excessively calloused; the skin is thick and durable but it is also supple and sensitive. Indeed, the worst callouses I’ve seen were on feet which spent most of their time in shoes.
I avoid clothing which restricts movement; unfortunately, this includes much which is ostensibly made for athletic activities. Careful construction with gussets/pleats/darts helps. The shoulder/hip joints are especially important and benefit from gussets made of an elastic and ventilated fabric, providing variable ventilation of the underarms/crotch relative to activity (i.e., the gussets tend to remain closed when inactive and open when active).
I prefer to use natural fibres (without dye or chemical processing), usually wool or silk, next to my skin. I think synthetic fibres provide superior performance (contrary to the heroic hype of the wool industry) but I remain wary of industry which is not compelled to disclose ingredients.
Woolen Stanfield’s (90% wool, 10% nylon) are durable and well-cut for a close fit and excellent mobility; indeed, I find the the cut and fit to be superior to the various brands of Merino madness I’ve tried (not to mention price). Stanfield’s are too heavy for warmer temperatures but Icebreaker tops have a satisfactory cut/fit (though the waist and price are too high).
In warmer temperatures, I usually carry a long-sleeve, knit shirt and loose pants, both made of silk. I wear them when sleeping, for additional warmth as conditions demand, and also to provide some resistance to mosquitoes when I’m not moving much.
I prefer down for its superior warmth:weight ratio and its longevity. The common complaint (or synthetic marketing mantra) is that down is a poor insulator when wet, but with due care and attention it can be kept dry enough, even in the rain forest.
I like a short-sleeve jacket because it’s warmer than a vest, lighter than a jacket, and it has no forearms to get snagged and torn while one works, such as MontBell’s UL Down T.
For extreme insulation: Nunatuk.
Using a vapour barrier between base layer and outer insulation significantly reduces heat loss and prevents body moisture from compromising outer insulation. One can be warmer with less, but careful attention is required to avoid overheating and excessive perspiration. It works well to augment insulation for sleeping, especially if the dew point is located inside the insulation.
When backpacking, I prefer a poncho or cape for ventilation and versatility (it can also serve as a tarp). Sometimes, I need to take my pack off and extract something from it with no other available shelter than what I’m already wearing.
Chaps enable greater range of motion than pants and provide excellent ventilation; they’re also easy to make.
I don’t use «waterproof breathable» clothing, preferring instead to let my body heat evaporate moisture in light rain, and to shed heavy rain with simple waterproof fabric (which is lighter/stronger/cheaper and more durable).
If one already has an ultralight waterproof jacket, then a wind jacket may be superfluous. As I prefer a poncho or cape for rain protection, a hooded wind jacket is an essential garment for me. MontBell’s Tachyon Anorak is one of the lightest.
Lightweight nylon pants dry quickly and provide wind protection (if the fabric is woven tightly).
The keffiyeh is wonderfully versatile; it provides excellent sun protection and it can be tied in various ways to provide more or less insulation and coverage as desired. It can also serve as furoshiki, and whatever else a square piece of cloth is useful for. I use mine for a pillow, and sometimes as an extra cover for warmth when sleeping.
The Buff is interesting. The Black Rock Beanie is an ultralight down hat.
Sunglasses are useful for more than just protection from the sun; they can serve as safety glasses, and polarised lenses enable one to see some things which would be otherwise obscured. Most sunglasses are very dark but lighter tints can be found. Photochromic technology is interesting but few lenses are both photochromic and polarised (however, that appears to be improving). In any case, I look for the following:
The best sunglasses I’ve found came off a Hawaiian convenience store rack of many different styles of cheap polycarbonate lenses; they’re ultralight, polarised and frameless with an excellent field of view and minimal distortion because the lenses are very thin (≈ 1 mm; it appears that lens thickness is restricted in Canada). A pair of Serengeti’s may have better optics but price can be prohibitive as eyewear tends to get lost and abused.
Ear plugs are especially useful in urban environments but sometimes I use them in the wilderness to help sleep through storms, or when surrounded by Coquí frogs. I rarely leave home without them, but they are easily improvised (from a dandelion bud, a soft leaf rolled up, &c.).
Excellent wrist/hand warmers which cover only the back of the hand and the knuckles, leaving the palm bare, are easily made from a pair of wool (or synthetic) socks.
I enjoy my feet bare and I prefer to augment them with no more than necessary. I don’t use hiking boots/shoes; I prefer to let my feet breathe/move and grow strong. I avoid lugged soles, arch support, and elevated heels.
An increasing number of manufacturers are finally making minimal footwear (so called «barefoot shoes»), thanks to the lead of specialised start-ups and the growing counterculture. I tried FiveFingers but I was disappointed by poor fit and dubious construction; in any case, jika-tabi seem more useful. Conventional (heel-strike) running shoes are easily modified by removing excess sole material.
As my feet are prone to overheating, I prefer sandals and very well-ventilated shoes. If it’s wet and not too cold, I usually let my feet get wet, but a plastic bag or another waterproof sock can be used if they need to be kept dry. Neoprene boots made for various water sports provide excellent mobility/comfort/insulation in cold conditions.
I like socks which have an open, breathable knit on top for ventilation and full-length elastic from the ankle up which is not too tight (especially at the cuff), though I prefer socks that do not extend much more than one third to the knee.
Many socks, especially those ostensibly made for technical applications, interweave separate (not continuous) coloured yarns which leave loose, lumping ends inside the sock, trading comfort for appearance; I avoid those socks. I prefer socks made of wool, perhaps augmented with a little nylon or polyester.
It appears to be well known that aloe vera helps relieve skin burns, especially sunburn; I’ve found it to be effective at preventing sunburn as well. When I travel in the sunny places where it grows, I apply it to my skin regularly; however, one should be careful to keep clean and avoid covering open wounds as it may enable bacteria to proliferate if trapped under its moist cover.
I stuff my sacks loosely, both to be gentle with their contents and also to enable more efficient packing (as they can fill irregular spaces), compressing them all together in the pack (instead of separately), and only as much as necessary.
The usual cord locks (i.e., plastic with metal spring) are not necessary. Assuming that a simple slip knot does not suffice, a rectangular piece of stiff but flexible/resilient material (leather, Hypalon, &c.) with two holes works well (i.e., squeeze into a U shape and the cord slides easily). Another method is to use two cord loops (instead of one), each exiting the channel on the opposite side of the other; also a good way to carry extra cord.
Arc’teryx makes excellent equipment and I used one of their packs for many years; I appreciate the mindful design and construction, especially the mobility of the hip belt. Eventually, my interest in carrying less weight and having better ventilation, led me to the Atmos 35 of Osprey Packs.
Ventilation is very important to me and a capacity of 35 L is about right for my purposes. Although there is an increasing range of well-made backpacks to choose from, the basic design has fundamental problems.
Contemplation and research of load carriage eventually led me to Aarn bodypacks. I think their design is excellent, certainly a significant improvement over conventional backpack designs. Presently, I use their Marathon Magic 33 while developing a similar design adapted to my own purpose.
A compact/lightweight wallet can be purchased from All-Ett, or made of Tyvek (a useful material easily obtained from window cutouts on construction sites, mailing envelopes, &c.). I avoid carrying coins.
I generally don’t carry first aid medical supplies because I’m usually able to improvise what I need from available materials.
I carry ibuprofen with me which is both analgesic (a pain killer) and anti-inflammatory. Willow bark and leaves can be chewed for similar effect (from salicin).
I use adhesives for closing cuts, avoiding further injury and complication of stitches and bandages. I prefer cyanoacrylate products (similar to Krazy Glue) made specifically for medical applications because they have a different chemical composition which is less toxic and remains flexible after it cures. In any case, I apply it to only the outer layers of skin, avoiding contact with any tissue that has a vascular network. Alternatively, natural materials can be used: the sap of some trees and plants works well (but one should avoid unknown species and potential toxicity).
The reflective, thin plastic sheets known as «space blankets» are inexpensive and versatile (e.g., water/wind barrier, vapour barrier layer, light/heat reflector, &c.).
I usually keep some plastic bags in my pack; useful for many things (even as emergency vapour barrier clothing).
I don’t need a towel for my body as much as my tarp, to wipe it dry before packing. Clothing can be used instead but it’s not as absorbent. Superabsorbent, microfibre towels are readily available. Some synthetic «disposable» towels also work well.
I don’t use much soap at home, and much less (or none) when travelling, but I prefer a vegetable oil Castile soap (like Dr. Bronners) which wreaks less havoc on the world than most other alternatives. It works for washing skin, hair, clothes, &c.
I usually travel with seeds, sowing them as I go. I collect the seeds of (non-invasive) plants and trees which seem useful (wild and otherwise), mostly those which make edible fruit. I don’t fuss about it, just plant them where they might survive and grow useful.
I generally prefer the smallest camera with raw format (see recommended cameras).
I like to record sound in a documentary way, similar to taking pictures of the interesting sights one comes upon. I’m pleased with the Olympus LS-10.
Computers are usually easy to find so I generally leave them at home when I travel and simply carry data, using a very compact USB microSD reader and card (note: a simple adapter enables microSD cards to be used in SD slots).
I like the form and technological convergence of touchscreen smart phones but I’m more interested in using one as a general purpose computer and recorder (rather than as a phone). In any case, I would consider buying only those which can easily run open software with unrestricted hardware access.
Electrical energy can be generated by solar panel, thermoelectric generator, dynamo, &c. I have yet to find a sufficiently compact/lightweight solution; i.e., for my usage patterns, it’s more efficient to carry extra batteries instead of equipment to charge them.
For sustainable operation, I’m still undecided. A dynamo can be driven by crank/pull-cord/turbine. TEGs give low efficiency but if heat is available… There are many small PV chargers on the market but I have yet to converge on any specifics.
I am developing a system to travel and explore my local coast. For long-distance transportation, I prefer to use more than just paddle propulsion. Oscillating foils are naturally efficient and Hobie makes an interesting implementation called the Mirage Drive. Either foils or a propeller can be powered by legs or a motor.
In any case, using the wind seems primary. A sea kayak and a traction kite is a simple place to start which can be augmented as necessary.
My kayak of choice is the Coaster by Mariner Kayaks, a short high-volume boat with less drag than longer hulls at cruising speeds (up to about 4 knots). The very similar F1 skin-on-frame design of Cape Falcon Kayaks is also interesting.
Most traction kites designed for use on water are leading-edge inflatable but I’m more interested in self-inflating foils like the Hydra of Powerkites.de, and single-surface NPW kites which are stable/rugged/inexpensive, and fly in very little wind.
Even with their advantages, recumbent bicycles did not appeal to me until I saw one made by Georgi Geogiev and bought my own soon after. I’ve used it for many years and developed a great appreciation for the geometry.
Tools can certainly be useful but only as much as that which employs them. The mind is essential, and the body, its primary instrument. A healthy mind/body can improvise and compensate for the absence of equipment; in the words of Mors Kochanski: «The more you know, the less you carry.»
A concise list of the above, as a palette for packing.